(and ALPINE…..)
In our research before our trip, somewhere we heard about this little West Texas town where the art and food scenes were remarkably BIG TOWN. So of course it went on the trip map and as we started looking at the route, it became clear that it would work as we left Big Bend and headed to Carlsbad Caverns. What we learned along the way is that many of these little West Texas towns collaborate on art and music festivals and are fun to check out together! So…..Marfa.
It popped up on the art scene several decades ago when Donald Judd, a minimalist sculptor, architect and artist bought a house in Marfa and began buying land for his large scale, abstract art and buildings. His vibe attracted other artists and soon Marfa was evolving from a dusty cattle town to a contemporary art scene and, as the cattle rancher we talked to at the Lost Horse Saloon said the influx of artists to the town became “pretty tense at times but if it hadn’t been for the art community, Marfa would have dried up”. If you’re interested, do more research…there’s a lot to know about Donald Judd’s history and the current foundations.
It is still a small town, but the art scene and James Beard nominees have put it ON THE MAP, so it attracts money and celebs, and their presence is real. The historic buildings are beautiful and the light and clouds make every view a great pic….here are a few:
Next…the food:
Bordo is the new food place on the scene which is an old gas station turned into a charming Italian deli run by a husband and wife…the food was amazing: A pasta dish and a classic sandwich were shared and then of course, gelato and they were all spectacular. His little restaurant/deli has been nominated for a James Beard award and he was the chef at another James Beard winning restaurant just down the road for 15 years. You can’t believe you are finding this here. Marfa Burritos were raved about by Anthony Bourdain, Matthew McConnaughey and others and the darling owner makes all the tortillas fresh when you order. It’s a hole in the wall where everyone has signed every inch of the place but the burritos are KILLER.
The next day we drove 25 miles east back to Alpine, a bigger town with Sul Ross University, but also known for cool historic buildings, art and a great vibe. We hiked to The Desk, a trail behind the university, where in 1981 a few students lugged a desk to the top of Hancock Hill so they could study (and probably drink) with a view. They left a message in a journal in the top drawer and when they returned and saw that someone had replied, a tradition was born. Pages and pages of entries and 24 years later, the university houses all the entries in their library archive! Very cool. Of course, we had to contribute! There’s also a little bicycle tree to make you laugh on the way up!
Then we walked around town, did some shopping, loved the signs and buildings and ended at Spicewood at the Quarter Circle 7 Resort. Our last stop back in Marfa was the Lost Horse Saloon, where we ran into Bob, a Scottish friend from our campsite, who when I commented on the dog at the bar, said that was just how Marfa rolls. When a tourist complained to the previous owner that she didn’t think there should be dogs in the bar, he went out, got his horse and brought it in. She left. Marfa continues.
