Hysterical…..we spent an hour in the Peabody lobby bar waiting for this and loved the style and charm this DuckMaster conveyed to a full crowd!
Beale Street: it delivered. Even though it was the middle of winter, we still were treated to great blues, engaging artists, good food, cool vibe. It was slow enough that we talked to all the musicians, including Mark Muleman Massey (check him out on Spotify) who was incarcerated for 4 years at Parchman Farm at 19 (for a marijuana charge) and was overheard by the prison “band” leader singing while working. He took him under his wing, put him in the band, gave him confidence and worth and now he has gone back into the prison to resurrect the band and help others. We didn’t know the Parchman farm story (O Brother Where Are Thou…) but suffice it to say it was another site of serious abuse, inequities and civil rights violations. We loved his voice and style and spent a good deal of time listening to him….We spent most of our time at the Rum Boogie Cafe, Silky O’Sullivans (with the diving goats) and the A. Schwab general store but loved walking up and down the blocks. We actually thought Beale Street had more charm and authenticity than Nashville. It felt real.
And finally, we visited the Civil Rights Museum which is housed in the Lorraine Motel, where MLK was assassinated, and were there the day before MLK’s birthday. The museum follows the civil rights fights and triumphs from slavery through present day and meaningfully honors King, but also many others who were so integral to this ongoing issue. The end of the tour actually passes by the motel room where he spent the previous night and his last few hours of life. It was a very moving moment.
We walked the Big River Crossing which takes you from Memphis to Arkansas and has great views of the skyline, we drove by Graceland (not really our scene) and we ate at Catherine and Mary’s which was a hip restaurant downtown. All in all…a great visit and yet another surprise for us. We liked Memphis more than we thought we would.
Now we are in Arkansas FREEZING during an unusual cold spell in the south and heading to Little Rock tomorrow. We are the only campers in this state park….that says something.